Dick’s Travel Blog

It’s Tuesday morning March 29th and I am looking forward to flying back to St Pete and seeing everyone again.  I’m itching to get going again on my journey also. I’ve spent too much time here already. After several false starts I finally headed to Lake Mead and north to the Valley of Fire. The false starts consisted of heading out and, at a point of no return in the road, I chose to head back home. I guess I was a little tired and the prospect of a 2 hr each way ride seemed daunting at the time.  Then Saturday I suited up and headed out. Two bottles of water in my bag, binoculars, camera and ready to go. I get to the check in station at Lake Mead Nat’l Recreation Area, pulled out my Golden Pass, which if I didn’t explain is a pass anyone 62 and over can purchase at any Nat’l park (I purchased mine at Vicksburg) for $10. It then becomes a life long free pass to any Nat’l park in the US.  Nice deal! I pull out my pass, chat a little with the guard (mostly about the Harley) and head out. About 10 miles into the journey and a little ways beyond where I had gone before,  there was a scenic overlook which was worthy of stopping for a photo.

I do so. Turn the bike off. Walk to end of the area, pull out the camera, press the On button and then realize I left the battery in the charger in the Coach. So much for that attempt. No sense going on without the camera. Back I go ready to watch a Pay per View movie or just read.  Wrong! On the way back I forgot that I pass a Casino.  The Casino, I recall, had advertised a T-Bone steak dinner for $7.95.  So using that as my excuse (some what like “I read the articles in Playboy magazine) I went in. On my way to the restaurant which of course is at the opposite end of the entrance (kinda like the milk at a grocery store) I stopped to watch someone play blackjack.  I decided I wasn’t all that hungry and sat down turned $300 into chips and began playing.  After being up and down for about an hour I stopped while up $25. Then I went to the restarant which only had the steak on Tuesday. So I paid $14.99 for a terrible seafood buffet. I learn once before to stay away from buffet’s at Casinos but this is Vegas or at least close.  I tried to get my moneys worth but just gave up. So now the $25 dollars I was up is down to less than $10 bucks.  On the way out I decide to try again at the tables and set a limit for myself at $100.  After about 1/2 hr I was up $75 and quit.

OK Sunday comes and I’m headed for the Lake and Valley again. Battery in Camera, water, gas, binoculars and determined to make it this time.  I took photo’s at virtually every scenic overlook but I must say that once I was past the ten mile mark things were mostly desert with the exception of a few roads to well defined harbors of which I’ve taken photos.  With those exceptions I was somewhat disappointed.  There were quite a few motorcycle riders out and a few bicycle riders which immediately made me think of how much Dan would enjoy being out here on his bicycle.  I later found out that there is an annual biker (motorcycle) event in the town of Laughlin akin to Daytona complete with deaths and arrests and threats never to allow it again. Not my thing but they say it is quite a spectacle.

I finally reached the Valley of Fire which is a State park and they charge $6 for entry even to Golden pass holders which is a federal deal.  The Valley is a beautiful, awesome display of Red Rock formations which if you had never been to Sedona would be spectacular. I took a few photos and cranked the bike to 65mph and tried to stay alive in crazy 75-80 mph traffic on the way home. I chose a different route thinking it would be faster. It was! I arrived home feeling like I just slid safely into second base. 

My coach neighbor is a nice guy with 2 kids, a wife, and 2 dogs in a coach not much bigger than mine. He travels around to construction projects with the family. He lets me put my garbage bag in the back of his truck instead of hauling it down about 1/4 mile to the only dumpster.  A great favor for which I will buy them a Cake or something.

About the only thing remaining for me to do is Vegas at night. I want to experience the opulence of the Bellagio, New York, New York and the others. I was on the strip before but it was 25 or so years ago and all I remember is leaving the rental car running at the entrance to the terminal to catch my plane. (They never did charge me any fee)

For your viewing pleasure:  http://proirb.com/For_Dick/MeadandValleyOfFire.exe

More after I  see Vegas at night!  See you next week.

 Sitting in the Lobby of  UNLV waiting for 10:30 meeting.  Just dropped the coach off for service on the refrigerator (again).  Hope they diagnose it correctly this time. I bought a thermometer for the fridge and the temp is 15 degrees in the fridge area (Iced Tea Snow cones) . When they get it to back to me I’ll head to Wal*Mart and do some overdue shopping for food and supplies.  The Journey here from Navajo country was uneventful and I’m settled in an RV park called Canyon Trails  which is quite nice and somewhat scenic with mountains in the background.  I got a monthly rate which allows me to leave it here when I go back to FL for Steve’s Graduation and then onto Atlanta to Exhibit at a Conference.  The nice part is that the RV Park is  10 min away from Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam complex on the southern end of the lake.  I rode the bike to the Dam and it was simply breathtaking. The ride to the dam is first up the mountain then down the other side to the low point where the dam sits in all its splendor. I can’t help but think.. here I am with the majesty of God and nature,  side by side with the majesty of man.  I saw a special on the Discovery Channel about the building of the dam however never really appreciated the massive effort it was especially without the sophisticated heavy equipment we now have.  I marvel at the blueness of the water and ponder that this Dam provides much of the water to southern California.  The approach from the top of the mountain is beyond description. You just can’t help but wonder how in the hell they did it.  They are currently building a new suspension bridge across the canyon peaks which, by the way, is Black Canyon not the original name of Boulder Canyon which is a different area once considered for the dam.  I took several photos of the bridge under construction since I marvelled at the scope.  The ride across the existing dam is narrow and traffic slows down.  When I went to the other side I took some photos and noticed a fancy yellow sports  car. I went down to take a closer look and saw that the driver only had one arm and my crazy thinking conjured that he probably was in an accident and got a huge settlement with which he purchased the car.  When I got close I realized it was a Lamborghinibut I didn’t know what model.  I  thought of asking the one armed man if he knew Richard Kimble but he was a lot bigger and younger and could probably breathe a lot better than me.   I did asked him if it was a Mercielago and he said he didn’t know he just rented it for the day. (So much for my accident theory).  I then asked …”if you don’t mind my asking  how much is the rental?  He replied $1100.00 for the day.  I was first shocked then chuckled and said “why not….F*** it!  He and his friend laughed like crazy and said that’s exactly what they said. He further added that his wife wasn’t with him so he had to take advantage of it.  It was at that moment I missed my Vette. That baby he was driving comes out of box with over 600 HP.   When he pulled out you could feel the smoothness of the acceleration and power output.  Not at all like the roar of the Vette.  I then rode around the first 2 “harbors” on the west shore of the Lake. Took a few photos and then headed home.  They do have a RV resort in Lake Mead which is Privately owned. They have spots for Coaches and a few vacation type manufactured homes where the monthly rental for the lot is @300 and the cost5 of the home varies from 15 to 50k. Problem is you can only stay for 6 months of the year. I spent Monday catching up on work and went to a meeting Monday night where 15 or so people (all men) went out of their way to say hello and make me feel comfortable and welcome.Its hard to remember what I did each day and I haven’t developed the discipline to record notes at least once a day. So I’m headed to Radio Shack to buy a cassette recorded to use.I rode around Tuesday and worked. Wednesday I went to University Medical Center of Southern Nevada and visited Jill Clark and staff. They are happy users of ProIRB and we spent some time talking about features and CyberIRB which they feel is too expensive.  Hope they reconsider.   Anyway Jill had a meeting to go to and graciously ended our meeting.  Before my cab came we meet 3 more times. Twice passing me outside and once when she brought down my writing pad I had left in her office.  I took a Cab there and back which was $75 each way.  Next time I’ll take the bike or the Coach.  Either way is a whole lot cheaper.  Thursday I vegetated and Friday went to UNLV where this story begins.

 Having left what could be considered the center of “upscale” if not opulence, entering the vast range of Navajo Country seems even more of a contradiction. However as I drive through the sparsely populated and sparsely vegetated land I begin to feel that the contrast was designed and is here precisely to demonstrate the extremes of the human condition both spiritually and materialistically.

It is true that Sedona and much of my travels to date have brought me to places where money, status, “success” etc. would help enhance the enjoyment of the surroundings such as  nice home on the water, a manicured lawn, a boat tied up at your dock, horses in the corral, a golf course in the back yard e.t.c.  What is becoming increasing clear to me is that the essence or spirit of the Navajo lands is in the absence of those very things. In that absence we are left with nothing but our “self” and the things of nature around us. My thoughts lead not to a large home with a lawn and nearby golf, but more of a small cabin, isolated from the distractions of “gathering more nuts for winter than the next guy” and simply enjoying what each day brings. Some reading, perhaps browsing the Internet(a trapping? or tool?)  as a information repository at my will. (Like we did once with Libraries).  Here is the place where less is more.

While  driving (and yet to see Window Rock) I wonder where does all that Casino money go?  Anyway my mind wanders to herds of bison and buffalo and the images we have grown up as well as thoughts of the terrible injustice we inflicted upon the Indians (whoops) Native Americans.  More and more I sense a proud people trying desperately to hold onto a culture and heritage.

As the elevation and temperature go in different directions I pass by Indian Jewelery and crafts places offering “genuine” deals and blankets for $7.77. That price had to come from the Casino!. My GPS is set for a Campground in a City called Gallup, NM just 30 miles or so from Window Rock, AZ.  Once arriving in town the origin of its name becomes clear. Everyone “galloped” the other way. The campground was OK the people nice but the WI-Fi which I needed was real temperamental. I had to leave a day early because of it and told the Manager (in a nice way) why. He apologized and said they were upgrading it and to please come back the next time. As it turns out I needed to come back that night after my visit to Window Rock. When I returned that eve, the WI-Fi was screaming with an excellent connection and blazing speed.

Monday morning April 7th I head out (and up) to Window Rock which is on a 2 lane highway through a Mountain Range attractive because of its vastness as opposed to anything distinctive. Coming into town was strange in that I had expected a thriving community at least surrounding and supporting the functions normally associated with the Capital of a nation. Not so, unless you count Burger King and the Navajo Indian Arts and Crafts Guild and a small shopping center. I had yet to understand that less is more but I’m learning.

As I entered the entrance to the Administrative facilities, a few cows were wandering the streets and shoulder of the road. There were no fences in site. I asked a fellow about it and he said we don’t need fences. The land belongs to all of us. No that’s not right. He said the land belongs to no one.

The Administrative center was consistent with everything I had seen for the last 200 miles or so. Sparsely populated but with what seemed to be enough for the basics. There was tribute to the “Rock” , a Museum, the semblance of various government departments (albeit very small), and 2 modern looking administrative buildings which didn’t seem nearly full. Our Clients have told us that each year the number of people working is a function of Grants and budgets and it is not uncommon to work less than a full year.

The Navajo are well regarded as leaders amongst the Native Americans and are looked to for guidance on advanced matters such as Clinical trials. Most of their studies are behavioral and social but they are increasing the Drug and Device related trials also. Diabetes, drug addition, are amongst the high priority areas of interest.

I met with Louise Joe, Bea Boyd, and Dr. Poudel who manage the IRB function.  My visit lasted several hours with a good discussion of a few features in the ProIRB program which as yet are not being used by them. We also discussed CyberIRB with great interest on their part.   It became clear that the Internet can be of great assistance to them since the Nation’s people are distributed all over the country.

OK I’m leaving now with great difficulty breathing. We are at 6-7K ft, add a lot of wind off the weeds of the desert, throw in a little nervousness on my part and wallah.. Oxygen time.

I returned to the campground primarily because I was too tired to drive and I promised to handle the phones the next day which meant I needed an Internet connection. I was out of range of my Sprint broadband card but only in the Navajo territory it seemed.

Anyway, I run into these folks at the office of the campground who said I couldn’t miss the opportunity to see Canyon de Chelly pronounced “Chea”. It’s a long haul (150 miles) all uphill but I am in no particular hurry so I went.  It was well worth it.

The area is called the Navajo Desert high country and is aptly named. Up to 8K ft. The ride itself was much of the same until the plateau was reached and the Canyon comes into view.  There is a National park campground which I could have stayed at but I had a listing of a campground farther in the Canyon with WI-FI. So there I go. Nine miles around the rim to a patch of land on the rim sectioned off in paths to hold vehicles to park. No water, power or dump site but the guy had WI-Fi from a DSL line he had.

When I awoke in the morning it was snowing which like every where else looks beautiful when its falling. But remember the “red” rock? Well it produces red dust, which when mixed with water produces red mud, which when stepped on produces red clay. Suffice it to say that everything was a mess. Including the Harley on the back of the coach.

I needed to get out of there quick. The prospect of going down that mountain with snow on the road made my heart skip a beat. Which when you can’t breath has a interesting effect.

So here I go headed in the general direction of Las Vegas. Problem is my GPS keeps trying to send me the other way. I ignored the GPS (not a good practice) and went with my instincts and the obvious. It turns out that somehow the switch that tells my GPS to avoid highways got turned on and it was trying to take me all over hell to avoid any main roads.  I finally realized this when the GPS voice said “I cannot find a route to your destination that avoids a highway” Oh well the fix was a lot easier than the problems I assumed I had.

On my way I out I was really disappointed because I had hoped to ride the bike around the rim and take a lot of photos. The place was simply breathtaking “pun intended”.  It was no Grand Canyon but it would certainly prepare you for the Grandeur of the Grand Canyon. It seemed more interesting (ie diverse) than the Grand Canyon in that it had more to offer other than just size and depth. I hope the photos (see link at the end) help you understand.

Leaving the Canyon proved uneventful except I had to pull over and join a conference call with a potential client for CyberIRB.  I had no Internet connection but was able to join in the discussion. I’m headed for Las Vegas but will probably stay in a RV Park in a place 30 min outside Vegas called Boulder City (home of Hoover Dam) which I’ll cover in the next installment.  took 2 days to get here(I’m in Boulder City a s write)  at a place aptly name Canyon Trail RV Park. The view is great and the park clean and organized and PAVED.

My first task was to wash the Motorcycle and the next day (today) Saturday, I detailed it before taking a ride to the Dam.

I’ll leave you now to get ready to head to Vegas on the bike. I want to take photos of the strip from the road in. They say its spectacular at night. I’ve seen it from an airplane so I can imagine.

Take care for now.  See the show  http://proirb.com/For_Dick/Navajo.exe

With an overpowering feeling of having left something behind, I ventured out of Sedona taking the “Scenic” route to Flagstaff before picking up I40 East to Navajo Territory.  After a fashion I realized that what was being left behind was a piece of me.  I’m convinced when God finished with Heaven he started Earth right in the Sedona Area. I’ve been many beautiful places in the world, and about to visit a few more, but Sedona and it’s Red Rock formations and Oak Creek Canyon have to be amongst the world’s most magnificent.  I took some more photos but they just don’t compare.  Enough! The scenic route proved both scenic and scary. A journey up the mountain range to 7000 ft  through a series of sharp switchbacks.  Signs slowed me down to 15mph which was about all the coach could do up the steep hill. Upon reaching the top I was startled with a view of snow peaked mountains just north of Flagstaff.  Flagstaff is a pretty nondescript place representing a North South and East West crossroads for Vegas, Phoenix, the Grand Canyon and Albuquerque . In keeping with my zest for local ethnic foods I stopped for a Grand Slam at Denny’s and just loved it. Maybe the bacon was Buffalo. You see a lot of roadside vendors selling Beef, Buffalo, and Elk  jerky.  I declined.  Flagstaff is on a mesa which contrast sharply with the mountains and cliffs I had come from.  Now all I saw was flat land with Cottonwood trees and brush with a few grazing cattle. It sure was windy up there with the coach being pushed from side to side in stronger gusts. I imagine the SkyWay would have been closed to tall vehicles. I kept wondering what a perfect place for a windmill farm.  Out in nowheres with a steady wind off the mountain. Oh well! Gas is up to $3.39 last fill up of 64 Gal. You do the math. The 200 miles or so to  Gallup, NM which is just south of Window Rock, AZ (Navajo Capitol) went very slow.  Nothing notable except the Meteor Crater which I decline at $12 entry fee to view a hole in the ground. I’ve owned a hole in the water(boat), a hole on the street (Corvette), a hole on the range(motor home). Wives do not count!Don’t know if I mentioned seeing an Elk when I was leaving Dan and Lori’s cabin. The road was too narrow to stop but he (or she) was big. and not too far from the road. Unfortunately I saw a hunter laid back in the bed of his truck waiting for something to come into sight. Oh well! Guess maybe he sells Elk  jerky.  Tomorrow off to Window Rock to visit with my clients and perhaps get a few tips on what to see. I will buy a pair of Genuine Moccasins for use in the coach and perhaps a small rectangular rug for the living area. Genuine Navajo Stuff is hard to come by.  Most are knockoffs.  Take care.Click for Slide Show:  http://proirb.com/For_Dick/On%20to%20Navajo%20Country.exeI’ve included a small writeup on the Navajo and Window Rock for those who care to read:Window Rock is the administrative Capitol and administrative center of the Navajo Nation, getting its name from the hole in the 200 foot high sandstone hill (Window Rock) located there. Located about 27 miles northwest of Gallup, N.M., and about 6 miles southeast of Fort Defiance, Arizona, it is just across the New Mexico-Arizona state line, on the Arizona side, in Apache County. Window Rock is located at Latitude: 35^o, 40′, 50″ N, and Longitude: 109^o, 3′, 7″ W, and has a 1980 census of 2230 residents. Window Rock contains the Navajo Nation Council House, the Navajo Nation Museum, and Navajo Tribal Zoo (until its closure in 1999), and Window Rock Fairgrounds where the Navajo Nation Fair (Widow Rock Fair) is annually held.

Well I’m at a huge RV dealer in Chandler, AZ hoping they will find out what’s wrong with my backup camera. It’s real cranky and doesn’t work sometimes. I think its a loose wire but they probably will find sometime with a circuit board or something. It’s under warranty, or at least its suppose to be. Get this, their labor rate is $125/hr. My bet is that’s the gas cost to a boarder fence to pick up the illegal (whoops undocumented) mechanic. Actually there seems to be fewer Mexicans here than in Atlanta.  Maybe since Atlanta is home to the Black middle class, they think they have upward mobility?

The ones I have met here are real friendly and speak English very well.

Anyway, I just spent an hour and a half with United Airlines trying to redeem the vouchers they gave me last Spring when I had to cancel my trip to Banff due to my broken foot.

I have to be in St Pete on May 4th for Steve’s graduation and then onto Atlanta for a conference. I’ll return to Vegas Vegas on May 10th.

I’m going to see a customer tomorrow, then meet Dan my nephew and his wife Lori (whom I’ve never met) for dinner at a famous and unique restaurant named Chile’s.

Strange how all cities seem to look alike down main street. We chose Chile’s because its probably the best in this town of Casa Grande. No sense driving the bike or the coach to Dan’s. I’ll do that Friday. On Sat Dan and I will go to his cabin in Tonto State park where I was promised an audience with Clayton Moore (for you trivia buffs). I’ll stay there for a week or so then head to Vegas where I plan to spend time at Lake Powell/Mead/ and Hoover Dam. 

OK the Camera is fixed (they replaced the monitor). However Friday (the next day) I go to leave for my nephew’s house and my slides won’t retract. Batteries (all 4 coach (not the engine)) batteries. Can’t charge them with my generator and am forced to call roadside assist. The guy says a 12 volt 300 amp fuse blew (must have been the dealer). Took about 3 hours and $200 dollars but I was back in business for Saturday.

Went to Dan’s house,  A real nice 3000 sq ft place then we left for the ride to the cabin.

I followed him through some real gorgeous territory which I really didn’t think Arizona had. You know desert and all that. The cabin is in Tonto National Forest and has a 6000 ft elevation. Great for my breathing. It brought me to my knees. Dan stayed Sat Night and left Sunday. I had planned to stay a week or so and ride the Harley around exploring and to town for High Speed Internet. The hill he lives on is gravel and proved too treacherous to navigate with the bike. Since I didn’t want to just hang in the cabin I decided to move on.

I drove over the Mountain to Cottonwood, stayed overnight at a Walmart and then headed for Sedona. I was in Sedona 35 years ago and loved it. I thought it was one of the most majestic, and spiritual places in the world. I haven’t lost that feeling.

The ride from Cottonwood was simply spectacular and I wanted to stop every five minutes to take a photo. Anyway, I would up in a Safeway parking lot so I decided to detail the Harley which was a mess after the dust  from the cabin and road. It looks great now. I took a ride this afternoon to take a few photos. See the link at the end of this post. I’m headed for a meeting tonight to straighten the out here.

The last photo in the slide show is my macro level plan for travel from here. It didn’t include Sedona so that says something about how “macro” it is.

I will leave Sedona on Sat for Gallup, NM which is a few miles from Window Rock, AZ home of the Navajo Nation who are a customer of mine. I will visit them on Monday but I hope to do Navajo tourist stuff and history prior to the visit.

Then on to Lake Powell, then Grand Canyon, then Vegas where I have 3 customers.

I fly back to St Pete on May 2nd to attend Steve’s Graduation then May 7th to Atlanta for a Conference/Trade Show. Then Back to Vegas. Then on to Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon on my my to Salt Lake where I have 2 customers. From Salt Lake I’ll work my way to Vancouver then take a ferry to Prince Rupert at the southern tip or Alaska where I’ll stay a while then pick up the Al-Can to Anchorage then the port of Homer where I met a guy at 2250 who owns a resort/motel there. I plan to do a lot of salmon fishing the head through the Canadian Rockies to Banff then down to Glacier National park. I’ll pick up my Grandson in Iowa and take him to Mount Rushmore then head to CT in the fall.  Whew……………………..Slide show       http://proirb.com/For_Dick/Arizona.exe