Seward, Alaska and the Kenai Fjords National Park
Thursday, July 24th, 2008
A tee shirt describes Seward as a small drinking village with a fishing problem. Seems to fit!
A tee shirt describes Seward as a small drinking village with a fishing problem. Seems to fit!
The tour of Denali National Park and Game Preserve
Since crossing the boarder into Alaska, the drive to Anchorage seemed like an eternity. I wanted to say I’m here but I don’t think anyone noticed. An interesting observation I have had since leaving Florida. It seems that the congeniality of people is inversely proportional to how far North they are. The farther North the less hospitable. Although one might argue that “southern” hospitality is not truly genuine and therefore doesn’t count as congeniality, I still feel that the colder the temperature… the colder the people (at least at first meeting).
Anchorage is a sprawling city much like any other small harbor town, with lots of light industry and fishing related service functions. It has a 4 story modern mall downtown where I purchased a data card for the local Wireless company (ACS). Speed is fast (EVDO Rev A) but coverage is limited. The coverage is better than Verizon Data which has none. Only Verizon Cell coverage.
On the way into Anchorage I got a glimpse of my first Glacier which wasn’t very impressive. Since then I’ve seen some biggies and was impressed. Big Time!
The campground I stayed at was very busy and cramped but the people were very nice and I was able to get the Inverter replaced and put in by a mechanic. All is well now.
My sister Marilyn arrived on the 14th and she is really enjoying herself and I’m glad she’s here. She leaning a lot about the Coach and has been a big help. Other than our childhood, I think this is the most contiguous time I ever spent with her. It’s good.
I picked her up at the Anchorage airport and 2 days later we were on the road headed for Denali National Park. I have links below to several slide shows which cover the time from leaving Anchorage to arriving at Denali and the first day where we went into the park (by ourselves) as far as you are allowed. The route was basically the same as the one we would take on tour which is covered in the next posting.
On the way to Denali we stopped to look over the area where we were going to go Salmon fishing after the Denali trip. My excitement level rose big time. It has always been a dream of mine to Salmon fish with a guide on a river in Alaska. I can’t wait.
We camped by a River about 10 miles from Denali with a fantastic view of the River and Mountain, until some jerk in a motor home, with at least 100 yards open to him, decided to park right up close to us blocking the view from the front. Marilyn was pissed and I was too but not enough to hassle the guy and get myself upset.
On the way to that river we were surprised by a grizzly bear crossing the highway. The bear is almost an light almond color, something I’ll discuss later. The camera I have takes excellent photos, however if I had known better (or even asked someone) I would have got one with more zoom capability, and a faster shutter reflect to pressing the button. Both features are vital to catch a good photo of live animals. This became especially true when we were viewing Humpback whales breaching. You had to be extra fast or clairvoyant as to where they would jump from next.
You are only allowed to drive into Denali park approx 15 miles which we did the night before our tour was scheduled. Remember “night” is a relative term here. It doesn’t get completely dark here till 1 or 2 in the morning. We managed to see a Moose up real close and a bear from a distance. Have fun with the following links:
http://proirb.com/For_Dick/2008_7_11_OnToAnchorage.exe
Tuesday July 1 and I’m headed out of Prince Rupert on what is the Canadian Independence Day. Everything is closed up tight, in fact they extended their weekend by closing yesterday too! I left headed to Route 37 which goes east then North to join with the Trans Alaska Highway at a place called Whitehorse. That point is about 1000km or 630 miles over roads I get differing opinions on as to their condition. Some say no problem, then someone told me their friends on motorcycles had to turn around and head back. Then roads were too bad and many places were gravel. Now being the motorcycle freak I am, I know that gravel is your worst enemy and too be avoided at all costs. So I figured it wouldn’t be too bad for a Motor coach, and it wasn’t. I needed to regroup from my problems in Price Rupert so I stayed at an RV Park in a town called Terrace which was just as pleasant as could be. The weather could have been better but everyone was helpful and Jim the owner of the Park was just a great host. I had my laundry washed and folded in Terrace which is a treat and managed to organize a replacement Inverter to be delivered to Alaska to the Park I will stay at. I also arranged for Harley to ship a Windshield to Harley in Anchorage. Now all I had to do was get there. I must admit to some apprehension if not fear. Driving those roads alone with sometimes hours before seeing another car was spooky. Also it didn’t get dark till about 2 in the morning then it was light again at 5. For the first time since I had it, I actually locked the Coach while I was in it. I also pulled out the Glock pistol I have so it would be handy. I lied at the boarder when the guard asked me if I was carrying any weapons. I didn’t want the hassles of declaring it or whatever they make you do. I had to lie again at the US Boarder in Alaska saying I didn’t have any weapons. The guard there actually came aboard and open closets etc. I had hid the Glock back under the bed. I left Terrace on the 4th of July and felt like a million bucks. I targeted a place called Iskut, about halfway to the Trans Alaska Highway (Canada #1) as my first stop. I just went to Google to make sure of the distance and felt a bit of nostalgia as I read off the names of the remote towns I went through. I wonder how I’ll feel when I read this blog 10 years from now? Then scenery was just spectacular. Much of the road was through mountainous area but many times alongside rivers and lakes. The views were so breathtaking, especially when the weather cleared that I found myself wanting to stop every five minutes to take a photo. I would still be driving if I had. It truly seemed like every turn around a bend was like flipping over to a new postcard. Most towns, while they didn’t look alike, had the same facilities available. Gas at $1.45 a litre ot about $6.00 a gallon. I gave up trying to save a little on things here and there. When you fill up in the morning for $300 and then again that afternoon for another $250 you not longer sweat the small stuff. I had my first breakfast out. Eggs, bacon, potatoes, Coffee. When I finished I didn’t even ask how much. I left a $20 bill and smiled. An observation I had near Iskut when I was passing a huge and beautiful lake named Totatom. I realized that the lakes I had admired in the US such as Powell and Mead were man made by flooding thousands of acres of land. The lakes I’d been seeing here are natural and as far as I can see untouched by man.(yet)Along the way it was very quiet. I couldn’t get Satellite radio and I thought it was just bad reception in the mountains. Later I learned that XM and Sirius only operate in the lower 48.
Forget about FM and AM. Not even any bible thumping. I resorted to oldies on CD and am now singing along with Chubby Checker which gets old.
Have I mentioned the mosquito’s? Oh my god they are huge and plentiful. I was under the impression that they just swarmed in the spring but not true. I just passed a highway maintenance gut who had a net covering his head over the hard hat. This is quite common including for fishermen. The mosquitoes seemed to let up the closer I got to Alaska with the heaviest problem in Northern BC. Oh yes, when I stopped for one of those $300 fill ups (also swarming with mosquito’s) the guy offered Internet Access at $30/day with no partial day rates. Not even I bit at that as I watched the back of his turban when he walked away.
Just after that fill up I was startled by a Moose and calf starting to run across the road from the side of the Coach. They quickly changed their minds and darted into the brush. Man those things are big. Hope to see more and maybe get a photo,
As I write this post I’m reliving how magnificent the whole experience is. One of my friends defined it as a spiritual one and I’d have got to agree.
I decided to keep driving after a few hours of sleep and went through Yukon territory. I keep trying to remember the name of the TV show Sargent whoever of the Yukon something or other. I just Googled it and came up with Sergeant Preston of the Yukon” (1955)
| With Dick Simmons, Yukon King, Rex. Canadian Mountie Sgt. Preston patrols the wilds of the Yukon with his horse Rex and his faithful dog Yukon King, … |
I remember the show well as young as I was. Who’d a thunk I’d be driving thru some 50 some odd years later. Driving through the Yukon (State Motto “Larger than Life”) was much the same as British Columbia except it seemed to be more dense with trees as if one could walk across the tops. After driving through a brief stretch of the Yukon you cross back into Northern British Columbia then back into the Yukon for the rest of the the way to Alaska. About 550 miles from the AK boarder I met a couple of young bikers. One on a big Yamaha the other on a Harley Road King. They were covered in mud and had ridden the entire way from Anchorage that morning. They planned to keep riding for a good while. My hats off to them. They warned me of the bad road spots. They are clearly marked and are basically humps which were pushed up during the winter. They said just slow down and it will be OK. I did and it was.At 9:10 Sat Night July 5th Alaskan Time Zone (4 Hrs behind EDT). I passed through US Customs at the Alaskan boarder. YEA!!! I did it!For your viewing pleasure:
It’s Sunday June 29th am I’m headed to the Ferry at Port Hardy to take me to Prince Rupert, BC. Port Hardy is a lazy small town with a few restaurants and support services for logging, mining, fishing, and a little tourism associated with the Ferry. My bet is however, that in 10 years the Island will be totally populated and plagued with summer resorts etc. Anyway, on my way into Port Hardy, which was a beautiful drive through Vancouver Island, I stayed at a Walmart in a town called Courtney as in Love. Cute, really out of the wayplace, with beautiful seascapes. As I neared Port Hardy proper I got my first siting of wild Black bears. Across the road at the top of the hill were two cubs or young ones. From my Discovery channel days I knew were the Cubs were the Mom was sure to follow. Sure enough I looked and spotted her near a fallen log. Silly as it seems, it was a real thrill seeing these animals in their own habitat not controlled or fenced in by man.The slide show depicts one of the most picturesque journeys I have ever taken. The “inside passage” up to Alaska contains incredible nature scenes and where a small town has built up it is just spectacular to imagine a quiet life. A life void of the stress that’s killing us all in the form of anxieties, obesity. unnamed illnesses and more. I’ll let the photos to speak for themselves. Arriving at Prince Rupert brings bad news. I was unable to find a replacement for my inverter which is critical to travel. One shop did help me and installed a replacement fuse for me and would only take $20 for an hour or more of work. He said a six pack and sandwich is all he needed. I liked him! Price Rupert is also home to the worst RV Park I have ever been at with the nastiest of owner/operators. I was concerned that it was just my attitude when he told me there was no WI-FI at the sites just at the office. I suggested that he might have indicated that when I booked. The next morning when I went to the office to use WI-FI he said “nobody wowed in Office”. (note the spelling is correct.) I asked where then can I use the WI-FI and he said No WI-FI. I will vote for internment camps if the subject ever comes up again.Once Again Enjoy!!! http://proirb.com/For_Dick/HardyRupert.exe
Its Tuesday Morning June 24th and I’m in Vancouver just over the border. The Journey from Twisp Wash to here was really nothing special however in good conscience I was simply looking to get to Vancouver as soon as possible. I had intended to stop in Seattle but my plans were changed for the better.
OK I finally feel guilty enough about not having updated the Blog that I’m actually sitting in the Coach at 8:30 PM PDT in a old British Columbia mining town named Terrace. It is set amongst the Coast mountain range and the town itself is alluring to the extent you think Walmart is upscale top fashion shopping. Which when I ponder that Walmart IS the most upscale shopping in the area it all starts to make sense. I’ll have more to say about Terrace when we get to my travels in Canada.
I’ve included the map above to give you a frame of reference of where it is when I mention a place. The last posting left off with me leaving Coeur D’Alene, Utah headed for Vancouver and points north. The landscape and scenery was fairly boring not withstanding the vast areas of farmland which looked recently plowed and ready for planting. It was a marked contrast to the already green and growing fields in Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming . It seems pretty obvious since these places are farther south but it doesn’t compute as readily when your driving and trying hard not to fall asleep. You can’t even watch the grass grow. That as I drove passed Spokane and a few miles or so farther things changed in a hurry. The landscape turned to forest and soon I was looking down at the Coulee Dam (which I swear used to be named Grand Coulee). I was impressed with the dam in that it appeared older yet more functional than the others I have seen. I guess dams are like anything else…they don’t make em like they used to. Evidence of this lies in the name of the first town downstream–Electric City. I wonder if it has an Electric Avenue?
Leaving the dam it only seems like a stones throw to the campground I stayed at in Twisp but the ride brought me through some cute little towns. One town “Okanogan” seemed to have a section that looked like Central Ave near the original 2250. Then as I got closer I noticed that the preponderance of Storefronts had names like Faith Mission for Change, “A second chance” (Obviously named by someone not familiar with recovery), “Rehabilitation center” etc, It scared me that I had such a sharp eye. I wondered why that was..for about 2 seconds. Then I came upon what was obviously a real fresh food market which had a sign “espresso coffee”. I had to stop and see how these folks where capitalizing on he Starbucks phenomenon. She didn’t have any regular coffee. Just espresso like the sign said. I told her I wanted a Quadruple espresso with a touch of Half and Half and one Sweet and Low. I could see I lost her on the quadruple part and held up 4 fingers and all was well again. Just a few minutes before I sat down tonight I was outside and the guy next to me was chatting and I asked where he was from. (I’m almost in Alaska remember). He said Okanogan, Washington. I immediately thanked God under my breath for somehow having kept me from running my mouth about the town I went through with all the rehabs in it. The fresh food market had beautiful Cherries grown locally and I bought 2 Lbs. She also canned (Jars) of different kinds of Jams and Jellies. I brought several and find them delicious. Up ahead about ten miles was my RV Park aptly named Riverbend. It was really picturesque and I had a spot right on the river and watched each day as guys pulled some nice looking trout out of there. I rode the Harley all over and just marveled at the beauty of the surroundings. Everyone I saw warned me about the deer crossing roads and if I were to see a doe crossing be warned that there will be fawn or two following right behind her. I personally didn’t see any but when I left and was about 5 miles out of town I ran into a traffic jam caused by motorcyclist and his female rider being lifted into two of the ambulances on sight. There where 3 other bikers there. Apparently all OK but I’m pretty sure I saw the sheet pulled over the guy. Up ahead about 20 yards was a large doe laying dead on its side.
I went to a meeting on Sat held at the local Fire Ranger station. Good people. BTW that night I had the best Hamburger I have ever had and on par with Ruby Tuesday’s at Don’s rest in Winthrop. His was only $7 including fries.